We created this troubleshooting guide to help with our most frequently asked questions regarding sealers.
Impulse sealers (hand, foot, automatic) work in a similar manner – often, if you are having a problem with your sealer, the solution can be found in the following parts: heating element, PTFE adhesive, PTFE cover, microswitch, mounting spring, and/or timer. Let us know if you have a problem that isn’t listed in this guide and we can try and assist you.
- Check element and PTFE cover and adhesive.
- Element: This is the wire (flat or round) that heats up to seal or cut the bag/film. Remove the PTFE cover and check that the wire is not discolored, bent, or broken.
- PTFE Adhesive: This is the 1/2″ piece with an adhesive backing UNDER the heating element. It should extend past the seal area 1/2″ on either side because it is the barrier between the metal machine and the metal heating element. For the PTFE adhesive, you must replace the bottom sealing strip whenever you change the element. The adhesive serves as a barrier between the heating element and the sealer’s body. When the sealer’s heating element has burned through the bottom adhesive and arc’ed on the sealer’s body, the element will break as well as destroy the timer.
- PTFE Cover: The PTFE cover that goes over the heating element must be whole to prevent the plastic bags or film from sticking to the element. For the teflon cover, we recommend changing the cover BEFORE it burns through. As the cover wears, you will see a discoloration where it comes into contact with the element, you may also notice that your element is sticking to the thermoplastic material you are sealing. You can maneuver the cover back and forth to allow the element to come into contact with the unused portions of the PTFE cover. If you are sealing/cutting a thicker plastic material (higher amount of heat) you may go through a lot of PTFE covers.
- We highly recommend having these parts in stock since they do wear and tear. To purchase a replacement part which would include all three items, visit our site here.
- Listen for “click” from microswitch when pushing bar down. This click should occur right before the upper bar comes into contact with the lower. If there is no click try the following:
- Hand Sealer: Slightly bend metal switch lever so that when arm of sealer is brought down, the lever makes contact with microswitch and a click can be heard.
- Foot Sealer: Small bolt for limit switch must be tightened as needed to make contact with the microswitch.
- Auto Sealers: A 3.5″ screw that is mounted on upper jaw must be loosened so that it will make contact with microswitch which is mounted on left side of hinge bracket.
- Microswitches can be purchased here on our site.
- Mounting Spring: Make sure that the spring the element mounts on is intact. Replace if damaged. Please check also that the mounting spring is not rusted or worn in any way as this will prevent the element from conducting heat. Mounting springs can be purchased here.
- Timer Light: The light on the timer should come on briefly when the seal bar is brought down for sealing. If it does not come on, the timer PC board probably needs replacing. Timers can be purchased here, but contact us if you cannot find the timer you are looking for.
sealers101 
why does the fuse blow when the upper bar makes contact with the microswitch?
The fuse is the first line of defense in protecting the sealer from shorting out other parts.
It is better to replace the fuse then to end up shorting out the Heating Element or PC Board or Transformer.
If you are blowing fuses there is metal to metal contact. Look over the sealer to determine where this is occurring. Try bringing down the seal arm & then return the seal arm to the up position.
Check to make sure that there are no loose parts or metal touching metal.
Check to make sure that the heating element is snug from one eyelet terminal to the other eyelet terminal.
Mine is not working. I changed the strips. All is well, no click. Just not working. What else can i do?
Hi Ashley – When you bring the arm down to meet the base of the sealer, does the timer light go on? If not, you will need a new timer for your unit.
Hi I have a similar problem, the light doesn’t turn on. I have changed the heating element a its covers. Where can I buy the timer?
Thanks for your inquiry Ivi. If your light doesn’t turn on most likely the timer needs replacement or you can check if you hear the click of the micro switch activating
Hello Ivi – timers can be purchased here: https://www.sealersales.com/timers
We have a Vertrod Thermal Impluse Heat Sealer. It has a blow off function and it is blowing off for too long. What could be causing this problem?
Hello Natalie – We do not carry any Vertrod sealers so we are not familiar with the machine. Vertrod is owned by PAC Machinery (http://www.pacmachinery.com/vertrod/) so we recommend approaching Vertrod and PAC Machinery is prob. your best bet. Sorry we could not be of more assistance.
I have an harvest right HR-IS-110 sealer that stopped working. The light does not come on all other parts seem to be in working order. Can I purchase this timer from you I could not find it on your parts list?
Hello Jeremy. We are not familiar with that sealer so we would not be able to assist with any parts. Sorry.
I have one of your FS-358F foot sealers. The heating band broke and when I replaced it, the heating band is glowing red on the end on the right side (under the plastic cover) when I try to seal a bag. If I continue to use it, the band will break again or it will melt the plastic. Do you know how this can be fixed or what is causing this?
Hello Phil. Thanks for your inquiry. We would recommend turning down the timer setting and allow the machine to cool with each seal cycle. If you are finding the heating element gets too hot, please also look at timer to determine if the timer is in need of replacement. If the timer is allowing heat to be transmitted for too long of a period, this could result in overheating the heating elements.
Thanks for the prompt reply! To clarify, the metal band glows red immediately upon sealing. I have reason to believe that the problem that is causing this is the issue that caused the last band to break.
We would recommend turning the timer setting down.
Also, are you replacing the PTFE UNDER the heating element every time you change the heating element.
the heat indicator on my model frs-1120w 12m/min keeps going up and down. can you help me?the heat wont stay at desierd point.
Hello Dan – That sounds like time to change the temperature controller.
Chris A
I have an H-86 impulse foot sealer. when I press down the timer light comes on and switches off as is supposed to however the heating element does not turn of until released. How can I solve this?
Hello Chris – Thanks for your inquiry. Even after the timer light goes off, there will be residual heat on the heating element. If you are finding that there is too much heat (more than normal), you can replace the heating element or the timer. If you have further questions, feel free to give us a call at 818-718-8818 or send us an email at contact@sealersales.com and we can help you.
The fuse in my bottle sealing machine keeps blowing. What causes it!
Thank you for your inquiry – Do you have a picture or a model # of your machine?
I used my sealer to seal just a few bags, then there was a loud “POP” and now it does not work. When I opened it, everything appears in order– the switch is being pushed and the timer light coming on– but no heat. Heating element?
Marisa
Thank you for your inquiry – yes, it does sound like your heating element is broken. We recommend replacing the PTFE UNDER the heating element and well as the element. Here is a video link on how to change out the heating element –
I have an impulse sealer that smokes from the non hinge side, it gets really hot, red light flashes and then nothing, no light, no heat.
Hello Sara
We would recommend that you check the heating element as it sounds like the element is broken.
Here is a video and a blog post on how you would change out your heating element:
Let us know if you have further questions!
My sealer won’t work and the timer light only appear for a second. I couldn’t seal any plastic. But I’m sure the heating doesn’t have any problem because I can still feel the heat from the sealer. Please help me.
Hello Faithah. Thanks for your inquiry. The light should only appear for a short amount of time. You can try turning the timer setting to a higher setting to see if your material will seal.
Please help me
we have automatic shrink wrapping machine the problem is that the automatic sealer not working its is not coming down in auto mode but working fine is manual mode can you help us with the rproblem
Hello Santosh – We would recommend that you contact who you purchased your auto shrink wrapping machine as every unit may be different
I have an Impluse Cutter-Sealer (500HC) and the plastic end cap has broken, exposing the element. Can I buy tehse as a spare?
Hello Lucy
We do have the part
The part is KFHC-49 – $4.00. Feel free to give us a call to order.
The impulse sealer made a loud pop noise and tripped the breaker. I replaced the PTFE and the heating element but still no heat. the LED goes on and the switch acts as its supposed to. Is there a fuse in the Uline standard heatsealer that needs to be replaced and if so where?
Hii… I am deep my 8inch heat and seal machine does not heating in all temperature and all size thickness pp ,power light sound all OK but when I use it always falls heating
We would recommend checking the heating element. It may be broken and need a change.
hi i have a PSF 300 THE SALE LADY TRY IT AT THE STORE EVERYTHING WAS WORKING GOOD NOW I TRYING TO WORK IT FROM HOME IT IS NOT HEATING. IT MY FIRST TIME USING IT SINCE I BUY IT LAST MOUNTH.
ON THE PLUG SAYS 110/250 V ON THE BOX SAYS 220 V BUT ON THE MACHINE SAYS 110/140 V. I PLUG IT INTO 220 V COURANT I CANT REMIMBER IF I PRESS IT DOWN BUT IF I DO I DIDNT HEAR ANY NOISE. THEN I WENT AND PLUG IT INTO 110V TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE NOW WHEN I PULL DOWN I HEARD A NOISE AND THE LIGHT COME ON BUT NO HEATING THE PLASTIC COULD YOU PLEASE HELP ME
I am not familiar with the PSF 300 which sounds like a wannabe fake unit of our much higher quality FS-300 sealer. You will want to confirm voltage with whoever you purchased the unit from. If the unit is a 110V and you plugged it into the 220V outlet, then you may have destroyed your unit.
hello, after checking and changing the heating element, the element still not heating up, PTFE and microswitch sound ok, and indicator light as well. What else you can recommend?
Thanks for your inquiry. There could be a loose wire somewhere in the unit. Other thing is you will want to make sure that the element is properly installed on both mounting springs. You may also want to check the condition of the mounting springs.
Hello, I have an H-87 Impulse Foot Sealer that is not heating up at all. I can hear the microswitch click, and the sealing light comes on for about a millisecond, but no heat. I’ve tried increasing the time and checked the fuse. I have 4 of these sealers that are experiencing the same problem. I also had a sealer’s heating element light up to glowing red after just turning the unit on. No pressing the pedal, and microswitch wasn’t engaged. I don’t know if one of the 4 sealers that I mentioned above is the one that came on instantly or not. Please help!
Hello Brian B. Thanks for contacting us. For the sealer that is not getting heat, have you changed the heating element and PTFE adhesive? Changing the heating element is pretty common when there is not heat. You can order a replacement kit via our website: https://www.sealersales.com/kfseries-foot-sealer-replacement-kit – The sealer model you will want to order is KF-300F
For the sealer which you say is heating up as soon as you turn on the sealer, I would suggest the changing the timer for that unit. see link below:
https://www.sealersales.com/timer-for-kfseries-foot-sealers
If you have any further questions, feel free to reach out to us at contact@sealersales.com
hello i have the inpulse TISH -200 I have just replace the heating wire.. and it melted or? tried a second one The same thing any ideas?
Hello Robert – One thing to remember is when you break the heating wire, you should ALWAYS change out the PTFE under the heating element. This will prevent future premature breakage in addition to protecting the sealer. The sealer’s PTFE adhesive serves as a barrier between the heating element and the the sealer’s body. When the heating element has burned through the bottom PTFE adhesive and arced on the sealer’s body, the element will break. This can also result in damage to a sealer’s timer.
We always recommend purchasing a replacement kit so that it will include the PTFE adhesive:
https://www.sealersales.com/tishseries-hand-sealer-replacement-kit
My sister gave me a impulse sealer machine as a birthday gift. I was not able to check it when it was delivered since my old sealing machine was still working,and i was confident that there will be no problem since its the same brand like the one that I’ve firstused. But last Sunday my old sealer was broken. I dont worry because i know i havea spare one which was the gift of my sister. That was only the time that i checked it and im very disappointed because the brand new sealer was not working. It has no power. Since the warranty is not already applicable what can i do to make this sealing machine work? I badly need it in my business. What can I do? Thank you veey much.
Dear Maria, We would recommend you contact the store you purchased the sealer to see if you can assist. We would then recommend you follow the troubleshooting steps listed in this post:
We have an FS-200 impulse sealer and believe the fuse has gone out. Would you know the size we should order for replacement? Unfortunately we seem to have lost the one that came out, and ordered a size that does not fit. This would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your inquiry. Please check that the FS-200 was purchased from Sealer Sales or one of our authorized distributors. If so, you can purchase the accompanying fuse here: https://www.sealersales.com/fuse-for-fsseries-hand-sealers
What should I use to clean the heat surfaces of my impulse sealer? seems to be getting a little sticky. Not bad really, just think some preventive maintenance is in order.
Hello! Some silicone spray on shopcloth should do the trick
where do i buy a timing knob/ switch for the sealing on my W-600A
Thanks for reaching out. To order the knobs for the W-series automatic sealers, please see link below:
https://www.sealersales.com/wseries-knobs
i keep getting breaks in my seal, almost like morse code Ive changed everything but it till does it what could be going on?
Hello Paul. Do you congeal your seal? Meaning: do you hold the arm down for a couple of seconds after the timer light goes off? This will help to solidify the seal
I have a brand new sealer, I used it to seal about 10 bags, then out of nowhere, it stopped heating up. The heating element is in tact, when I press down, the light comes on and I can hear the click, I opened up the bottom and everything looks okay. I can’t figure out what is wrong. I need help!
I have a H-87 KF-300F, the sealing light comes on very dim and stays on while the foot petal is depressed. The sealing strip does not get hot. The element and strips are all brand new, the fuse and element tested good. Any tips?
Hello Ed. Thanks for your inquiry.
This sounds like you may need to change out the timer on your unit.
You can purchase a new timer via link below:
https://www.sealersales.com/timer-for-kfseries-foot-sealers
Please let us know if you have any other questions.
My unit comes on but the element does not stay heated. It appears that it stretches and the contact is broken as the element begins to glow orange.
I’m not sure what the fix is.
Hello Mike. Could you advise on what unit you have?
We carry replacement heating elements which you can browse here:
https://www.sealersales.com/heating-elements
W300, foot sealer, no heat to either element. power to the main terminal. Breaker button in the down (On?) position. Recommendations? Thanks
Thanks for reaching out. If you are getting power to the unit but no heat then we recommend changing out the heating elements. See below for our replacement heating elements for our W-300DT units.
https://www.sealersales.com/wseries-heating-element-for-direct-heat-sealers
Please reach out if you have any further questions.
Will the breaker in the down (on) position allow current to pass to the heating elements? because I checked the voltage at the breaker terminals and it reads zero. Also, are the heating elements independent, ie, would one work if the other was fried? Thanks, Dave
I have a mercier extra long hand sealer. Just replaced the heating cord, light comes on, clicks for 3 to 4 seconds, acts normal but is not getting hot.
Hello Kyle, We would recommend changing out the heating element as well as the PTFE adhesive UNDER the heating element.
I changed the heating element. It does not get hot.
You may want to take a look at changing out the PC Board or timer.
should read FOOT sealer!