We created this troubleshooting guide to help with our most frequently asked questions regarding sealers.

Impulse sealers (hand, foot, automatic) work in a similar manner – often, if you are having a problem with your sealer, the solution can be found in the following parts:  heating element, PTFE adhesive, PTFE cover, microswitch, mounting spring, and/or timer.  Let us know if you have a problem that isn’t listed in this guide and we can try and assist you.

  1. Check element and PTFE cover and adhesive.
    • Element: This is the wire (flat or round) that heats up to seal or cut the bag/film. Remove the PTFE cover and check that the wire is not discolored, bent, or broken.
    • PTFE Adhesive: This is the 1/2″ piece with an adhesive backing UNDER the heating element.  It should extend past the seal area 1/2″ on either side because it is the barrier between the metal machine and the metal heating element. For the PTFE adhesive, you must replace the bottom sealing strip whenever you change the element.  The adhesive serves as a barrier between the heating element and the sealer’s body.  When the sealer’s heating element has burned through the bottom adhesive and arc’ed on the sealer’s body, the element will break as well as destroy the timer.
    • PTFE Cover: The PTFE cover that goes over the heating element must be whole to prevent the plastic bags or film from sticking to the element. For the teflon cover, we recommend changing the cover BEFORE it burns through.  As the cover wears, you will see a discoloration where it comes into contact with the element, you may also notice that your element is sticking to the thermoplastic material you are sealing.  You can maneuver the cover back and forth to allow the element to come into contact with the unused portions of the PTFE cover. If you are sealing/cutting a thicker plastic material (higher amount of heat) you may go through a lot of PTFE covers.
  2. Listen for “click” from microswitch when pushing bar down. This click should occur right before the upper bar comes into contact with the lower. If there is no click try the following:
    • Hand Sealer: Slightly bend metal switch lever so that when arm of sealer is brought down, the lever makes contact with microswitch and a click can be heard.
    • Foot Sealer: Small bolt for limit switch must be tightened as needed to make contact with the microswitch.
    • Auto Sealers: A 3.5″ screw that is mounted on upper jaw must be loosened so that it will make contact with microswitch which is mounted on left side of hinge bracket.
  3. Mounting Spring: Make sure that the spring the element mounts on is intact. Replace if damaged.  Please check also that the mounting spring is not rusted or worn in any way as this will prevent the element from conducting heat.
  4. Timer Light: The light on the timer should come on briefly when the seal bar is brought down for sealing. If it does not come on, the timer PC board probably needs replacing.

30 responses to “TROUBLESHOOTING – Impulse Sealers

  1. why does the fuse blow when the upper bar makes contact with the microswitch?

    • The fuse is the first line of defense in protecting the sealer from shorting out other parts.

      It is better to replace the fuse then to end up shorting out the Heating Element or PC Board or Transformer.
      If you are blowing fuses there is metal to metal contact. Look over the sealer to determine where this is occurring. Try bringing down the seal arm & then return the seal arm to the up position.
      Check to make sure that there are no loose parts or metal touching metal.

      Check to make sure that the heating element is snug from one eyelet terminal to the other eyelet terminal.

  2. Mine is not working. I changed the strips. All is well, no click. Just not working. What else can i do?

    • Hi Ashley – When you bring the arm down to meet the base of the sealer, does the timer light go on? If not, you will need a new timer for your unit.

  3. Natalie Couch

    We have a Vertrod Thermal Impluse Heat Sealer. It has a blow off function and it is blowing off for too long. What could be causing this problem?

  4. I have one of your FS-358F foot sealers. The heating band broke and when I replaced it, the heating band is glowing red on the end on the right side (under the plastic cover) when I try to seal a bag. If I continue to use it, the band will break again or it will melt the plastic. Do you know how this can be fixed or what is causing this?

    • Hello Phil. Thanks for your inquiry. We would recommend turning down the timer setting and allow the machine to cool with each seal cycle. If you are finding the heating element gets too hot, please also look at timer to determine if the timer is in need of replacement. If the timer is allowing heat to be transmitted for too long of a period, this could result in overheating the heating elements.

      • Thanks for the prompt reply! To clarify, the metal band glows red immediately upon sealing. I have reason to believe that the problem that is causing this is the issue that caused the last band to break.

      • We would recommend turning the timer setting down.

        Also, are you replacing the PTFE UNDER the heating element every time you change the heating element.

  5. the heat indicator on my model frs-1120w 12m/min keeps going up and down. can you help me?the heat wont stay at desierd point.

  6. Chris A

    I have an H-86 impulse foot sealer. when I press down the timer light comes on and switches off as is supposed to however the heating element does not turn of until released. How can I solve this?

    • Hello Chris – Thanks for your inquiry. Even after the timer light goes off, there will be residual heat on the heating element. If you are finding that there is too much heat (more than normal), you can replace the heating element or the timer. If you have further questions, feel free to give us a call at 818-718-8818 or send us an email at and we can help you.

  7. The fuse in my bottle sealing machine keeps blowing. What causes it!

  8. I used my sealer to seal just a few bags, then there was a loud “POP” and now it does not work. When I opened it, everything appears in order– the switch is being pushed and the timer light coming on– but no heat. Heating element?

  9. I have an impulse sealer that smokes from the non hinge side, it gets really hot, red light flashes and then nothing, no light, no heat.

  10. My sealer won’t work and the timer light only appear for a second. I couldn’t seal any plastic. But I’m sure the heating doesn’t have any problem because I can still feel the heat from the sealer. Please help me.

  11. santosh oswal

    we have automatic shrink wrapping machine the problem is that the automatic sealer not working its is not coming down in auto mode but working fine is manual mode can you help us with the rproblem

  12. I have an Impluse Cutter-Sealer (500HC) and the plastic end cap has broken, exposing the element. Can I buy tehse as a spare?

  13. Mark Puglia

    The impulse sealer made a loud pop noise and tripped the breaker. I replaced the PTFE and the heating element but still no heat. the LED goes on and the switch acts as its supposed to. Is there a fuse in the Uline standard heatsealer that needs to be replaced and if so where?

  14. Gyandeep bhattacharya

    Hii… I am deep my 8inch heat and seal machine does not heating in all temperature and all size thickness pp ,power light sound all OK but when I use it always falls heating

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