Tag Archives: Instruction

Refresher Course: How to Use a Heat Sealer

Getting Started - Heat Sealer

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Stand Up Pouches…what sealers should I choose?

Stand-Up-Bags_Group_Clear

For your stand up pouches, we suggest using either a 5mm impulse sealer or a direct heat sealer (constant heat sealer).  We offer a variety of equipment at various price points and all the sealers listed here will work with your pouches…choose based on the width of your stand up pouch.

Download our stand up pouch sealer recommendation guide.

…for your most basic needs…

If you are just starting out your production and looking to seal sample sizes, these options will work the best.  Affordable and easy to use with very few moving parts.

FS-200 FS-300_revised

FS-205 / FS-305
easy to use / 8” and 12” lengths
seal width – 5mm (0.20”)

KF-150CST 6” jaw / 2 temp settings seal width – 15mm (0.59”)

KF-150CST
6” jaw / 2 temp settings
seal width – 15mm (0.59”)

….for quicker sealing

These two options (THS & W-300DAT) utilize a foot switch for faster production. (Hands get mighty tired after a full day of sealing).

THS-200 / THS-300 / THS-400 foot switch activated / 8”, 12”, and 16” seal width – 15mm (0.59”)

THS-200 / THS-300 / THS-400
foot switch activated / 8”, 12”, and 16” seal width – 15mm (0.59”)

W-300DAT table-top model / foot switch activated seal width – 15mm (0.59”)

W-300DAT
table-top model / foot switch activated
seal width – 15mm (0.59”)

….fastest production volumes…

Band Sealer – Our fastest option yet!  Simply place your bag on the conveyor.  Adjustable temperature and speeds available.

ertical continuous band sealer seal width – 8mm (0.31”) 15mm option

ertical continuous band sealer seal width – 8mm (0.31”) 15mm option

Shrink Wrapping – Using an I-Bar Sealer

Check out our latest video on using an I-Bar Sealer for shrink wrapping.  An I-Bar sealer allows you to make professional looking packages in seconds with no mess or fuss!

Maintenance – How to change the Heating Element and PTFE Cover/Adhesive on your Hand Sealer

Maintenance is KEY to a long lasting impulse sealer.  Regular maintenance of your impulse sealer will ensure the longevity of your sealer.  After using between 1,000-5,000 seals, it is normal for the heating element (wire) to break .  The number is dependent on your timer setting and will vary from user to user.  Regularly replacing your sealer’s heating wire, PTFE adhesive (sticky brown protective skin under the element), and the PTFE cover (brown protective skin over the element) is essential for your sealer’s health and well-being.

Take a look at our instructional video on how to change out your heating element and insulation pieces.

MAINTENANCE – Direct Heat (Constant Heat) Sealers

KF-200CS_small

KF-CS Series Portable Direct Heat Sealer

For sealing thicker materials, we are big fans of direct heat sealers – portable or foot operated.  Direct Heat Sealers provide really beautiful seals and are super easy to use.  However, to ensure that your direct heat sealer enjoys a long life, please follow the following easy steps.

  1. Always unplug the sealer from the power source when doing maintenance.
  2. Make sure the unit is not left on when not in use for a period of time.
  3. Do not leave the unit on overnight.  This will shorten the life of the parts.
  4. Find the lowest temperature that will still seal the bag.
  5. Make sure that when the foot board is depressed that the foot board does not hit the ground.
  6. Make sure that the unit is wiped down periodically to remove any excess bag material left behind after sealing.
  7. Remove any food debris from the sealer or seal bars that may have oozed out of the bag when sealing if you are packaging food.
  8. Purchase Silicone Spray from a local hardware store . There are many brands & types.  I would look for food grade Silicone Spray if packaging food.

    THS Series Foot Operated Direct Heat Sealer

    THS Series Foot Operated Direct Heat Sealer

  9. Spray the Silicone Spray onto a shop rag or tooth brush.  When the sealer is turned off for the day & near cooled, still warm is a perfect time to wipe down the sealer.  Never spray the Silicone Spray directly on to the unit.

Impulse Sealing vs. Direct Heat Sealing – Your Questions Answered

We often get this question:  What is the difference between impulse sealing and direct heat sealing and how do I choose??

Impulse sealers – require no warm up time and seal by applying a pulse of energy to the sealing  area, followed immediately by cooling.  Impulse sealers only use power when the jaw is lowered.  **So if you are just sealing your every day poly bags, an impulse sealer will do the trick.**

a 5mm impulse sealer will do the trick for this poly bag

Direct heat sealers (constant heat) – maintain constant heat in both jaws.  Direct heat sealers use power as long as the machine is turned on.  As a result, direct heat sealers possess better heat penetration in order to seal thicker materials.   **If you are sealing thicker materials such as kraft paper or anything with gussets, go with a direct heat sealer.**

Gusset bags require direct heat sealers

Use our handy little chart to help you make a decision but if you still are unsure, please contact us or one of our distributors for assistance!

Impulse vs direct heat_larger

Help! My Sealer Isn’t Working!

Q:  I bought a sealer and now the sealer  isn’t working!  Can you help me?

A: Why, of course we can! We are the sealer experts and can assist you with any sealer problem.  Most often, the problem is a simple fix.  All you need is a screwdriver, unplug your machine and follow our quick little troubleshooting steps.

Using a screwdriver, loosen the PTFE metal plate and untuck the PTFE cover.

1. Is your heating element / wire broken?
– This is the wire (flat or round) that heats up to seal or cut the bag/film.  Remove the PTFE cover and check that the wire is not discolored, bent, or broken.

Check the wire. Make sure the wire runs fully across the sealer.

2.   Do you hear the “click” of the microswitch activation?
The microswitch allows the electricity to pass to the heating element which in turn heats up and seals your poly material.  Sometimes the microswitch moves out of alignment during shipping and needs a simple adjustment to get the unit back to proper working order.

Remove the bottom plate to locate the microswitch

If you do not hear the “click” of the microswitch, you will want to locate the microswitch and make sure the arm operating bracket touches the microswitch when the sealer arm is brought into contact with the sealer base.
Carefully push the microswitch level to ensure that the level comes in contact with the microswitch trigger.

Carefully push the microswitch level to ensure that the level comes in contact with the microswitch trigger.

Mounting Springs hold the elements on both ends.

3.  Are the mounting springs (holding the elements) in tact and in good condition?  Make sure that the spring the element mounts on is intact. Replace if damaged.  Please check also that the mounting spring is not rusted or worn in any way as this will prevent the element from conducting heat.

Make sure there are no loose connections to the timer.

4.  Does the timer light come on when you bring your arm down to meet the base of the sealer?  The light on the timer should come on briefly when the seal bar is brought down for sealing. If it does not come on, there maybe some loose wires or the timer may need replacing

TROUBLESHOOTING – Impulse Sealers

We created this troubleshooting guide to help with our most frequently asked questions regarding sealers.

Impulse sealers (hand, foot, automatic) work in a similar manner – often, if you are having a problem with your sealer, the solution can be found in the following parts:  heating element, PTFE adhesive, PTFE cover, microswitch, mounting spring, and/or timer.  Let us know if you have a problem that isn’t listed in this guide and we can try and assist you.

  1. Check element and PTFE cover and adhesive.
    • Element: This is the wire (flat or round) that heats up to seal or cut the bag/film. Remove the PTFE cover and check that the wire is not discolored, bent, or broken.
    • PTFE Adhesive: This is the 1/2″ piece with an adhesive backing UNDER the heating element.  It should extend past the seal area 1/2″ on either side because it is the barrier between the metal machine and the metal heating element. For the PTFE adhesive, you must replace the bottom sealing strip whenever you change the element.  The adhesive serves as a barrier between the heating element and the sealer’s body.  When the sealer’s heating element has burned through the bottom adhesive and arc’ed on the sealer’s body, the element will break as well as destroy the timer.
    • PTFE Cover: The PTFE cover that goes over the heating element must be whole to prevent the plastic bags or film from sticking to the element. For the teflon cover, we recommend changing the cover BEFORE it burns through.  As the cover wears, you will see a discoloration where it comes into contact with the element, you may also notice that your element is sticking to the thermoplastic material you are sealing.  You can maneuver the cover back and forth to allow the element to come into contact with the unused portions of the PTFE cover. If you are sealing/cutting a thicker plastic material (higher amount of heat) you may go through a lot of PTFE covers.
  2. Listen for “click” from microswitch when pushing bar down. This click should occur right before the upper bar comes into contact with the lower. If there is no click try the following:
    • Hand Sealer: Slightly bend metal switch lever so that when arm of sealer is brought down, the lever makes contact with microswitch and a click can be heard.
    • Foot Sealer: Small bolt for limit switch must be tightened as needed to make contact with the microswitch.
    • Auto Sealers: A 3.5″ screw that is mounted on upper jaw must be loosened so that it will make contact with microswitch which is mounted on left side of hinge bracket.
  3. Mounting Spring: Make sure that the spring the element mounts on is intact. Replace if damaged.  Please check also that the mounting spring is not rusted or worn in any way as this will prevent the element from conducting heat.
  4. Timer Light: The light on the timer should come on briefly when the seal bar is brought down for sealing. If it does not come on, the timer PC board probably needs replacing.

Videos

We will continue to post additional new videos of our products but see our links to current videos.  You can also visit our YouTube Channel here or visit our website.

How to Use a Hand Impulse Sealer

How to Use a Foot Sealer

Automatic Foot Sealer Demonstration

Automatic Sealer Demonstration

Band Sealer (Horizontal) – CBS-880 Demonstration

Band Sealer with Dry Ink Coding (HL-M810 Demonstraton)

Continuous Band Sealer (Vertical) with Dry Ink Coding (HL-M810II) Demonstration

Continuous Band Sealer (Medium Duty) with Dry Ink Coding (FRM-1120C / FRM-1120W)

Direct Heat Sealer (W-300DA) Demonstration

Portable Direct Heat Sealer Demonstration

DZ-280/A SINBO Vacuum Sealer

WVT-455T Vacuum Sealer for Embossed/Channeled/Gusseted Bags 

MY-380F Dry Ink Coding Video Demonstration

HP-280 Semi Automatic Imprinter Video Demonstration 

ColumnAir Packaging – for wine bottles and toner cartridges

How to Use the SINBO (DZ-280/A) Vacuum Sealer

The SINBO Vacuum Sealer is the ONLY household vacuum sealer using standard vacuum bags (not the FoodSaver type of bags).   Follow our easy steps below to achieve the best vacuumed product.  We also have a video demonstration you can watch.

Step 1.  Turn the Power Switch Off.  Open the top cover by lifting the lid.  If the lid is locked, push down on both left and right corner spots marked “lock” (part #1) to release the cover.
Step 2.  Test the Seal Process.  Practice a few seals before beginning the vacuum process to determine the time setting needed.  We suggest starting at either 3 or 4.  Note that after sealing a few packages, you may have to drop your setting down by 1 or 2 settings as it will take less time to seal additional bags.
Step 3.  Start the Vacuum Process.
(a) Extend the snorkel (nozzle) (part #4) by pulling the snorkel slide (part #2) forward until it locks into place.
(b) Close and lock the cover by pushing down on the right and left side locks (part #1).  You should hear a “click” when the lid is locked.
(c) Turn on the power switch and the vacuuming process will begin.
Step 4.  Start the Sealing Process – “Double Press Method”
(a) After you are satisfied with the vacuumed bag, momentarily push down on the seal bar (part #4) and release.
(b) Quickly push down again on the seal bar with even pressure until the seal light flashes and you hear a beep indicating the seal is complete
Note:  We suggest the “double press method” for attaining the best seal as this prevents trapping the snorkel in the sealing area.  We want to ensure the snorkel fully retracts.
(c) Push down on both the locks until the cover releases and remove your bag.
Step 5.  Repeat for Additional Bags.  To seal your next bag, turn the power switch off and start at Step 3.

TIPS FOR BEST VACUUM

  • Make sure the product in the bag is placed evenly throughout the bag – best placement is in the center of the bag (this will help ensure your product is not blocking the snorkel.
  • While vacuuming the bag, you may need to rub the layers of the bag between your fingers if the bag is blocking the snorkel
  • Note:  You will notice a change in vacuuming noise when the snorkel is blocked

QUICK POINTS TO REMEMBER

  • When the SINBO vacuum sealer gets too hot from over usage, you will hear a warning sound and the seal will become irregular.  Turn the sealer off and allow the sealer to cool.  The warning sound is to protect the machine from overheating.
  • Do not try and extend the snorkel when the cover is down
  • Keep the bag from blocking the snorkel
  • Snorkel must fully retract before sealing the bag
  • Turn off the machine before starting the next bag