Tag Archives: how to fix a sealer

Maintenance – How to change the Heating Element and PTFE Cover/Adhesive on your Hand Sealer

Maintenance is KEY to a long lasting impulse sealer.  Regular maintenance of your impulse sealer will ensure the longevity of your sealer.  After using between 1,000-5,000 seals, it is normal for the heating element (wire) to break .  The number is dependent on your timer setting and will vary from user to user.  Regularly replacing your sealer’s heating wire, PTFE adhesive (sticky brown protective skin under the element), and the PTFE cover (brown protective skin over the element) is essential for your sealer’s health and well-being.

Take a look at our instructional video on how to change out your heating element and insulation pieces.

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Help! My Sealer Isn’t Working!

Q:  I bought a sealer and now the sealer  isn’t working!  Can you help me?

A: Why, of course we can! We are the sealer experts and can assist you with any sealer problem.  Most often, the problem is a simple fix.  All you need is a screwdriver, unplug your machine and follow our quick little troubleshooting steps.

Using a screwdriver, loosen the PTFE metal plate and untuck the PTFE cover.

1. Is your heating element / wire broken?
– This is the wire (flat or round) that heats up to seal or cut the bag/film.  Remove the PTFE cover and check that the wire is not discolored, bent, or broken.

Check the wire. Make sure the wire runs fully across the sealer.

2.   Do you hear the “click” of the microswitch activation?
The microswitch allows the electricity to pass to the heating element which in turn heats up and seals your poly material.  Sometimes the microswitch moves out of alignment during shipping and needs a simple adjustment to get the unit back to proper working order.

Remove the bottom plate to locate the microswitch

If you do not hear the “click” of the microswitch, you will want to locate the microswitch and make sure the arm operating bracket touches the microswitch when the sealer arm is brought into contact with the sealer base.
Carefully push the microswitch level to ensure that the level comes in contact with the microswitch trigger.

Carefully push the microswitch level to ensure that the level comes in contact with the microswitch trigger.

Mounting Springs hold the elements on both ends.

3.  Are the mounting springs (holding the elements) in tact and in good condition?  Make sure that the spring the element mounts on is intact. Replace if damaged.  Please check also that the mounting spring is not rusted or worn in any way as this will prevent the element from conducting heat.

Make sure there are no loose connections to the timer.

4.  Does the timer light come on when you bring your arm down to meet the base of the sealer?  The light on the timer should come on briefly when the seal bar is brought down for sealing. If it does not come on, there maybe some loose wires or the timer may need replacing

TROUBLESHOOTING – Impulse Sealers

We created this troubleshooting guide to help with our most frequently asked questions regarding sealers.

Impulse sealers (hand, foot, automatic) work in a similar manner – often, if you are having a problem with your sealer, the solution can be found in the following parts:  heating element, PTFE adhesive, PTFE cover, microswitch, mounting spring, and/or timer.  Let us know if you have a problem that isn’t listed in this guide and we can try and assist you.

  1. Check element and PTFE cover and adhesive.
    • Element: This is the wire (flat or round) that heats up to seal or cut the bag/film. Remove the PTFE cover and check that the wire is not discolored, bent, or broken.
    • PTFE Adhesive: This is the 1/2″ piece with an adhesive backing UNDER the heating element.  It should extend past the seal area 1/2″ on either side because it is the barrier between the metal machine and the metal heating element. For the PTFE adhesive, you must replace the bottom sealing strip whenever you change the element.  The adhesive serves as a barrier between the heating element and the sealer’s body.  When the sealer’s heating element has burned through the bottom adhesive and arc’ed on the sealer’s body, the element will break as well as destroy the timer.
    • PTFE Cover: The PTFE cover that goes over the heating element must be whole to prevent the plastic bags or film from sticking to the element. For the teflon cover, we recommend changing the cover BEFORE it burns through.  As the cover wears, you will see a discoloration where it comes into contact with the element, you may also notice that your element is sticking to the thermoplastic material you are sealing.  You can maneuver the cover back and forth to allow the element to come into contact with the unused portions of the PTFE cover. If you are sealing/cutting a thicker plastic material (higher amount of heat) you may go through a lot of PTFE covers.
  2. Listen for “click” from microswitch when pushing bar down. This click should occur right before the upper bar comes into contact with the lower. If there is no click try the following:
    • Hand Sealer: Slightly bend metal switch lever so that when arm of sealer is brought down, the lever makes contact with microswitch and a click can be heard.
    • Foot Sealer: Small bolt for limit switch must be tightened as needed to make contact with the microswitch.
    • Auto Sealers: A 3.5″ screw that is mounted on upper jaw must be loosened so that it will make contact with microswitch which is mounted on left side of hinge bracket.
  3. Mounting Spring: Make sure that the spring the element mounts on is intact. Replace if damaged.  Please check also that the mounting spring is not rusted or worn in any way as this will prevent the element from conducting heat.
  4. Timer Light: The light on the timer should come on briefly when the seal bar is brought down for sealing. If it does not come on, the timer PC board probably needs replacing.